Sailing Micronesia - Week 17

Day 113 – February 12

“All we can do is sit here and wait for the wind to shift.  It may be another 2 days according to the weather report”, said Captain Bill.  So we bobbed around on the Pacific Ocean all day.  This is when boredom creeps up on me and I long for land.  According to the charts it’s only 150 nautical miles north until we reach Chuuk (Truk).  That could mean we’ll set foot on Micronesian soil in less than 2 days – as long as the wind cooperates.

Day 114 – February 13

At breakfast today we discovered a colony of little beetles called weevils living in our bag of oats.  Instead of tossing the infested oats into the ocean Captain Bill told us that weevil infestations in the tropics are a common occurrence and to just put the oats in water and scoop out the weevils that float to the top.  So that is what we did… scooped out at least 30 weevils while cooking the oats but still managed to find several more as I was eating my oatmeal.  Yummy!

Day 115 – February 14

Land Ho!  Around 4pm today we found ourselves entering a Micronesian atoll called Losap.  Once  we had entered the lagoon it was a beautiful sight with breaking waves all around us.  Looks like Becky has won the bet!

Day 116 – February 15

In the morning Becky and I snorkel over to Losap Island and were amazed at its beauty.  Around 3pm we set sail for Chuuk (Truk) in hopes of arriving at the entrance to the lagoon just before sunrise.  We had a great night sail with good wind and actually arrived at 3am, a few hours before dawn, so we sailed back and forth until it was light enough to see our way into the lagoon.

Day 117 – February 16

After 21 days at sea we have arrived to Chuuk (Truk)!  Customs and Immigration refused to come out to the boat and made us dock on the wharf next to a local passenger ferry that looked like it was ready to sink.  The locals were quite curious about us since they see less than 10 cruising boats a year and most of them tend to anchor on the south side of the island.

Chuuk (Truk) Customs gave us no problem but Immigration did not like that we had no advanced permit to enter the Federated States of Micronesia so they took our passports and told us we could have them back once they got clearance from the capital of Pohnpei.  Bill asked how long that would take and their response was maybe tomorrow or maybe next week.  Typical…

Day 118 – February 17

We spent the day settling in and searching out the most important things:  email, ATM, and a place to get a great meal.  Email was as easy as buying a prepaid card and using the great WiFi network.  Just down the road was the Truk Stop Hotel and Dive Center which had great views along with good food.  But finding an ATM was a headache and a half.  There were no ATM’s on the island and I was told by some people that 1 of the 2 banks on the island may be able to do a cash advance on a credit card but you had to catch them on the right day.  Lucky for me today was that day!

While sailing across the Pacific Ocean I had decided that once on Chuuk (Truk) I would leave the boat.  Four months of sailing was enough for me and I was ready to venture onto new adventures.  Looking at flights I realized that Chuuk (Truk) was not the cheapest place to fly from.  It was going to cost me more to fly to Manila, Philippines (2000 miles away ) than it cost me to fly from LA to Bangkok, Thailand (8000 miles).  Now I just need Immigration to give us our passports back so I can book my flight. 

Day 119 – February 18

Today was Friday and Bill told me that he was going to force Immigration to give us our passports back before the weekend.  Lucky for us they stopped by in the morning with our passports in hand and charged us each $20 for the permit.  As soon as I had my passport in hand I booked my flight for the following day and spent the remainder of the day packing and booking other flights and hostels in Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. 

While at Truk Stop Hotel having lunch I met 3 Danish guys who had spent the previous 2 weeks diving the wrecks in Truk Lagoon.  I found out that they too were flying to Manila the following day as were several other people staying at the hotel.

Day 120 – February 19

A local guy looking at the boat at the wharf offered to take me to the airport and so we set off in his beat up truck.  The roads in Chuuk (Truk) are horrendous; extremely muddy and filled with potholes.  He told me that the government is working on fixing the roads but realistically it might take 10 years for them to complete the project.  This local guy drives his old truck on these horrible roads and leaves his “nice” car parked at his house.  I asked when he plans to drive his car and he tells me “maybe in 3 years”.

I flew Chuuk (Truk) to Guam to Manila to Singapore and once at the Singapore hostel it felt great to finally take a warm shower, washing all the salt from the last 4 months off my body along with all the caked in mud on my feet from walking on the roads in Chuuk (Truk).  The things we take for granted.

Voyage to Micronesia - Week 16

Day 106 – February 5

Current position:  Latitude 3˚ South.  Only 240 nautical miles until we reach the equator - at least 700 nautical miles until Micronesia.  Seems like an eternity when our average sailing distance has only been 70 nautical miles over a 24 hour period.

A very trying day for me today.  Besides being exhausted from a sleepless night, there was little to no wind.  Most of the day was spent drifting in the hot sun with the sails flapping and the rigging creaking.  It drove me absolutely insane, testing my patience.

Day 107 – February 6

The one question that no one knows the answer to is “where are we headed”?  With over 700 nautical miles to sail and shifty winds some days it looks like we might end up in Micronesia and other days it seems we’ll miss it completely and end up in Palau or even Indonesia.  That’s what happens when you sail by the wind and not with the help of an engine.

Day 108 – February 7

Current position:  Latitude 1˚ South!  After being pushed in a NW direction by the wind it looks like we will miss the Chuuk (Truk) island group of Micronesia which is due north 480 nautical miles and will hopefully reach the Yap island group of Micronesia, which is even further away - at least 1000 nautical miles.  Sad to say we may be at sea for a few more weeks.

Day 109 – February 8

Salty bed sheets, salty clothes, salty skin… everything these days seems to have that sticky salty feel to it.  When sailing the open ocean bucket showers seem to happen only once every 4 days and to pass the time we read, cook, or just daydream while watching the huge ocean swells roll by.

Day 110 – February 9

Current position:  Latitude 0˚ – we’ve crossed the equator!  We celebrated as the GPS read 0˚00’ latitude and 150˚43’ longitude at 11 pm last night.  We’ve headed into the northern hemisphere and have gone from it being summer in the southern hemisphere to it being winter in the northern hemisphere.  But then again, being so close to the equator it’s always hot and steamy regardless of the season.

Day 111 – February 10

Just when I thought I’d have to endure another dinner of canned tuna for the 12^th straight night we caught a fish… and not just one but two!  To start off, we hooked a 3-foot grey shark but the lure was so embedded in his tooth filled mouth that we cut the line and he swam away with our lure.  As soon as we replaced the lure and put the lines back in the water we hooked our “first-ever” mahi.  Once we got him into the cockpit we immediately hooked a spanish mackerel, one of our favorites.  Such excitement for one day.

Day 112 – February 11

We’ve been spoiled with great wind the past several days that today when it suddenly died it was quite a disappointment.  Floating in the Pacific Ocean, fixing the engine which had flooded with water again was how we spent our day.  For a little refreshment, I swam in the ocean with schooling mahi swimming under me and when I got out I realized that I had a baby remora suctioned to my leg.  Crazy little guy!

Voyage to Micronesia - Week 15

Day 99 – January 29

Because of the 2 knot current overnight we drifted 22 miles and I awoke to see the southern tip of New Ireland just outside my porthole.

With no wind in sight, we bobbed around most of the day.  When the winds finally picked up at 3pm we sailed them where they took us which was east at first and then south (we need to go northeast to reach Micronesia).  Looks like we might just make it to Buka on the island of Bougainville which claims to have the blackest people on the planet.

Day 100 – January 30

Overnight the winds shifted unfavorably and we decided that our only option was to head back in the direction we had just sailed “100” nautical miles from.  As depressing as it was we tried to come up with alternate plans for getting ourselves past the islands of Papua New Guinea and into the great Pacific Ocean headed for Micronesia.

Luckily in the later part of the day the winds shifted in our favor and even though they were light they were getting us to where we wanted to be – on the eastern side of New Ireland.  When I went on my night watch at 2am it was dead calm and quiet.  I could hear dolphins coming up for a breath of air nearby.  Soon they were swimming and jumping alongside the boat.  Just what was needed to keep me awake and entertained!

Day 101 – January 31

Somehow we found the countercurrent to the current that was pushing us south in St. George’s Channel a few days ago.  Now we were being pushed NE.  Perfect!!  This is just what we needed.  

Becky and I have a bet going on the actual day that we will arrive in Micronesia.  I say February 9^th (which is 9 days from today) and she says the 14^th.

Since there was very little wind overnight we decided to hove to and drift NE with the current in hopes of making it to the nearby Feni Island or the Green Islands.  Just before I went to bed I heard splashing at the bow of the boat … it was dolphins visiting again!

Day 102 – February 1

Great morning wind let us sail directly to Nissan Island, part of the Green Islands.  Nissan Island is an oval shaped island with a big lagoon in the center.  After anchoring, a few local villagers canoed out to trade produce.  Lettuce in particular was a wonderful surprise so I made a great salad that night.  It’s not often we have fresh greens onboard.

Day 103 – February 2

From sunrise to sundown we had a constant flow of villagers in canoes (mostly kids) bearing produce in exchange for secondhand clothing.  By the end of the day we had more than we could possibly eat.  It was amazing to see how generous they were.  They even invited us to their village which was a treat for both us and them.

Day 104 – February 3

Rain… Rain… all day it rained off and on so much that we were able to fill up our water tanks and do our laundry.  The rest of the day was spent doing a few last minute boat projects in preparation for sailing across the Pacific Ocean.

Day 105 – February 4

Incredible sight!  Upon leaving Green Island we set out the fishing lines and immediately hooked a big eye tuna.  But before we could reel it in, two 6-foot grey sharks attacked the tuna, leaving us with only the head.  Afterwards you could see the sharks swimming under the boat.  A little bit scary!