Day 64 – December 25
Christmas!!! Becky and I decided that the best Christmas present would be to play in the volcanic ash. We set out in the morning before it became too hot and found a great spot – out of view of any local villagers (who would think we were absolutely insane). We covered ourselves (head to toe) in the gray ash and created ash clouds. Becky entertained us by playing her ash song on the guitar while I captured the moment on film. It was the perfect way to spend Christmas morning in Rabaul!
After cleaning ourselves up in the ocean, Bill, Becky and I headed over to Rabaul Hotel and enjoyed a delicious lunch of prawns, several bottles of tasty white wine, and a dip in their “cold” swimming pool. We were baffled at how a pool could be so cold in such a hot place.
Day 65 – December 26
A few days ago we had asked Barney at the Rabaul Yacht Club to arrange a few guides to take us on a hike up the active volcano, Mt. Tavurvur. Normally you’d imagine that the villagers would be lining up for this opportunity since we typically pay them quite well based on Papua New Guinea standards but just like every other time, when we turned up at 6am there was no guide to be found. Since Bill and this Australian guy, Steve, were along for the climb we felt pretty safe attempting to navigate the volcano on our own.
Incredible views inside the steaming crater once we reached the top. There were so many different colors of green from all the sulfur being emitted out of the volcano. Three hours later we were back on the boat, drinking a cold beer and enjoying a delicious fish BBQ – all before 10am!
Day 66 – December 27
Since we plan to be in Rabaul for at least 12 more days we decided to do a little work on the boat and finish varnishing the entire inside. When we left Australia we left in a rush and varnishing was one of the things that did not get finished – and boy is there a lot that needs to be varnished. This should keep us busy for the next 12 days!
Day 67 – December 28
Varnishing in the morning and in the afternoon we were surprised to see another Schooner sailboat flying the American flag sail into Rabaul Harbor. We radioed over to them and invited them over for drinks and appetizers later that day. They turned out to be a family of 3 sailing around the world from Long Beach, California which they left 4 years ago! Their daughter “Coco” was only 11 years old (7 when they began their journey) and already seemed so worldly. What an amazing way to grow up!
Day 68 – December 29
More varnishing in the morning. In the afternoon the wind picked up and we experienced our first big dust storm – the kind where volcanic ash is flying everywhere, creating small dust tornados. After the dust storm came rain which cooled things down a bit and made for an enjoyable sleep. Typically it’s so hot and still at night that we wake up in pools of sweat. Both Becky and I often dream about hiring a local village kid or two to fan us while we sleep.
Day 69 – December 30
Still more varnishing in the morning. Rod told us that he was leaving today for a 10 day boat charter with the guy who started Starbucks. Becky and I rowed “Weewanhaka” over to his boat to say our final farewell – although at the rate we’re going we’ll likely still be in Rabaul when he returns.
Again the late afternoon brought rain and cooler temperatures, meaning a good night’s sleep once again. I can get use to this!
Day 70 – December 31
New Years Eve! We were invited over to the American Schooner “Cocokai” for cocktails. Since Bill had gone into Kokopo it was just Becky and I who ventured over to their boat. After serving us “Buffalo Milk” cocktails (recipe comes from Catalina Island off the coast of Los Angeles) we all headed over to the Rabaul Yacht Club for their Friday night dinner.
The word on the street was that the New Year’s Eve party was at the Rabaul Hotel and after dinner everyone at the Rabaul Yacht Club seemed to head over that way so we caught a ride in the back of a pickup. And a party it was – complete with a DJ! After an hour or so we decided that the best place to ring in the New Year was back on “Cocokai”. We headed back to the boat and played dominos (Mexican Train) until 5 minutes before midnight. Then Coco got out the noise makers and Greg was tempted to light off a flare but was a bit concerned that the harbor police might ticket him for that. Seems like everyone else in the town of Rabaul had the same idea since at midnight there were at least 10 flares that had been sent high into the sky. Both Becky and I agreed that it was the perfect way to ring in the New Year!
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