Day 8 – October 30
Today we took the dinghy out to a small island just off the coast of Suau Island and spent most of the day snorkeling, exploring the island, and purely relaxing. What a life we have!
In the evening a local village woman canoed out to the boat and asked if we had any batteries for her flashlight. We told her that yes we have batteries but asked her what size she needs. She tells us she needs “ABCD” battery. After much confusion we later find out that there is a battery brand called ABC and she needs the D battery.
Day 9 – October 31
After spending 4 glorious days at Suau Island we pulled up the anchor and sailed east towards the village of Ilo Ilo – about 40 nautical miles. Along the way we passed over the Sunken Barrier Reef and hooked a decent sized Rainbow Runner which none of us had ever eaten before. Our fish book listed it as a 3 star out of 4 in terms of tastiness so we knew we would be eating well that night. In addition, it was October 31 – Halloween, so we felt the need to cook up some pumpkin given to us by the people on Suau Island.
Day 10 – November 1
Amazing sight to wake up to dolphins swimming near the boat! The night before local fishermen from Ilo Ilo stopped by the boat to say hello and we told them we would buy fish if they caught any. Sure thing, that morning they came by with their boat filled with fish, lobsters, and sadly turtles. For 40 Kina (about $15 USD) we got a huge sweetlips fish, several lobster tails, and these crustaceans the locals call “bugs”.
That afternoon, Becky and I were escorted ashore by several local village boys in their little boat. With 10 boys in tow, ranging in age from 5 to 15, we were guided on a hike to the other side of the island. When we became thirsty, one little boy climbed “monkey-like” up a coconut tree to get us fresh coconut water. Delicious!
Day 11 – November 2
Around 6am little Joe and a few local girls paddled out to the boat and I asked if I could take their canoe for a spin. I paddled around and the little girls couldn’t stop giggling at the sight of me paddling their canoe.
We left Ilo Ilo heading towards Samarai Island to check in at Papua New Guinea customs and along the way passed over the Sunken Barrier Reef again. Just like clockwork we hooked a fish. This time it was a spanish mackerel. As soon as we had filleted the first fish, off went the line again and we all shouted “fish on”! It was another spanish mackerel but this one was huge, giving us about 15lbs worth of fish. We’ll be eating well for the next few days, that is a given!
Since the wind was not blowing in our favor, we ended up anchoring the night at Doini Island – about 12 nautical miles from Samarai Island.
Day 12 – November 3
After drinking our daily “SEAWANHAKA mocha” we did a quick sail over to the small island of Gona Bara Bara where we were told there was a manta ray cleaning station. After a quick snorkel to determine that yes, there were manta rays and after a delicious breakfast of fish, we put on our scuba gear and jumped in to search out the manta rays. Despite the current being incredibly strong (to the point of having to hang onto rocks in order to keep from being swept away) we were up close and personal with 2 huge manta rays. Absolutely amazing!
By noon – after having a swim, snorkel, eating a great fish breakfast, diving with the manta rays, and drinking a beer, we set sail once again for Samarai Island, arriving in the early evening.
Day 13 – November 4
We attempted to clear Papua New Guinea customs at Samarai Island but found that Felix, the customs guy, was on another island and could possibly be away for days. Since it looked like we were going to be “illegally” in Papua New Guinea for another day we hunted down a local police office to ask permission to remain at Samarai Island for the day. Sitting in the shade, chewing on betel nut, he says “no problem”.
Walking around this small island we stumbled upon “native toilets” over the water. Imagine an open air, cement structure on stilts, separated into 2 sides – ladies and men. Each side has several holes in the floor where you squat, which then drops directly into the ocean. Quite an experience!
For dinner we headed to the guesthouse where Bill has been many years previous. We asked the women there to cook us a traditional Papua New Guinea dinner and we feasted on Spanish mackerel, potatoes, taro root, plantains, sautéed local greens, passion fruit, mandarins, and the toughest donut I have even eaten. The dinner was quite dry but with a few S.P.’s (the Papua New Guinea local beer) everything seems to go down much smoother.
Day 14 – November 5
Planned destination for today was Alotau, the capital of the Milne Bay Province. 30 nautical miles should only take a few hours but it was critical that we made it to Alotau before 4pm since it was Friday and Papua New Guinea customs doesn’t work on the weekends. This was the first time where we ran into zero knots of wind meaning zero speed. Just our luck. We were at a standstill and it was HOT! What better thing to do that take a dip in the ocean! We finally gave up on waiting for the wind and turned the engine on (which almost never happens on SEAWANHAKA).
Before we arrived to Alotau we had to get rid of all evidence of having been in Papua New Guinea for the last 8 days. Into the ocean went the bananas, coconuts, squash, and empty S.P. beer cans.
Papua New Guinea customs and quarantine came onto the boat, seven people in all. Within 30 minutes we had arrival stamps stamped into our passports but quarantine was not so eager to clear us for entry into Papua New Guinea. They required us to fill out medical statements which we could only get on Monday. That meant we needed to stay in Alotau over the weekend but luckily they allowed us to get off the boat and come ashore.
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